*OLD* October 8th, 2005- North by Northwest (maybe my longest email yet)

My batteries for my camera ran out today (first time in 124 days) exactly 3 hours after I´d given my extra set to a friend so I decided to write another email. I am in Tilcara in the Jujuy province in Northwestern Argentina with about 45 other americanos. I´ve realized that my past emails have been written more to entertain than inform and that my humor is sometimes mistaken for information, therefore this email will be written to inform rather than entertain.
It´s been a welcome respite from the lonely wanderings of multimillion populated cities to come to a town with 50 other Americans in a province that averages about 1 person per square kilometer. The region is a rocky, dusty desert with cacti, dust, and rocks. We flew out on Wednesday morning at 930am. Realizing that my morning prowess hasn´t been that great as of late, I decided the best idea was to rent three movies Tuesday night and watch them all night instead of sleeping. So now I know of The Thin Red Line, Blow, and the Motorcycle Diaries (without subtitles).
Returning to the future past, on Wednesday some guys played a game of soccer which was a lot of fun despite the fact we are at 9000 ft above sea level and the dust that followed our every stride/stagger (towards the end). This was followed by a group dinner and long talks about the distant future when we´re twentyfive, discussions about our pasts stemming from our dreams, and pretty neatly lots of talk about Christianity and its ramifications (more on this later).
Thursday we started at a museum and had talks from local professors about the economic and social state of Jujuy province -not too good- followed by a museum tour. One by one we broke out of the museum (all rural museums in the Andes are the same) onto the main plaza and in an act that will surely go down in history as one of the best decisions ever, I bought empanadas from an old lady making them in the plaza. Four empanadas later a small crowd had gathered and one and all declared this anciana the patron saint of empanadas and the empanadas a national Argentine treasure (she made them in front of our eyes and I have pictures to prove it including her own pot on coals to deepfry).
My friend Eric from Tulane and I explored the city and heard of a figure named Maximo who ran horseback riding tours for the town. We went to his house (small town) and his wife invited us in and talked with us for a bit and we resolved to ride to the Garganta del Diablo (Argentines have the best names for waterfalls) the next morn. We did. And it was great. When I get a real computer I´ll send a picture of the cacti that dot the hillsides and look like haphazard crosses marking Indian graves with unknown occupants.
That night we went to an art gallery/restaurant/music venue owned by two brothers. We ate llama steaks (taste like llamas smell...not too good unless you´re a fan of hay and llama smell) and watched as at least fifteen different diners played various instruments, sang, skitted?, and danced for four hours. Just to illustrate the awesomeness of this place, the owner brother (probably late 20s) put on a full-length macintosh (rain coat) for no reason (he said in case someone threw a tomato at him) halfway through the night.
Today we went to a Seven colored mountain and to the saltflats in Salinas. Just miles and miles of salt, ate in a building made of salt, sat on salt benches, bought figurines made of salt, and other saltrelated activities. Our time ends tomorrow with a flight back to BsAs in the afternoon. However, it has been great meeting at least 14 but no more than 23 people who are now friends, getting sunburned from riding horses (oh, also my saddle came loose during the third hour and horse and rider (me) fell down a particularly steep section of the path when the saddle slipped up to the neck area. Luckily I landed on my chest (and my backpack strap that snaps across the chest and has been ridiculed by some for my fastening of, took the brunt of the sharp rock and broke, but my sternum did not but I bruised my foot when the horse fell on it), and having good talks. Most conversations started with the future which lead to the past which led to my past which led to my spiritual walk which led to frank (not terse but more in the sincere sense) of others experiences with Christ, which led to talks on stuff I´ve been thinking about down here like superstition, love, community, economics, politics and how all that stuff should or could or shouldn´t or might or mixes with Christianity. It´s been really good being able to bounce thoughts off others and realizing the state of my own and others faiths who I hadn´t bothered to ask about.
In conclusion, the trip has been a great change from Buenos Aires drudgery and proven a fertile ground for friendships. Now it´s off to the art gallery for dancing (not so much) and salads (best salads I´ve had in Argentina, and I´ve had so many in only two visits already that they start making them for me before I even ask, that´s my boy Ferdinand). Write back and receive an entertaining personal response, an even more deeply informative message, or a page from my journal that includes ruminations on the divine or mundane with a hearty dose of witticism and assorted thoughts thrown in, (just mark 1,2, or 3 for the type you want).

From Josh "Tossing the Salad" Bull

ps If any of you are interested in contacting the empanada lady, she´s has no phone, no email account, or car. You´ll have to stop by the main plaza of Tilcara between 11am and 4pm on sunny days.
pps If any of you are interested in what I´m reading, it´s now DOG YEARS by Gunter Grass.
ppps If any of you recently proposed to a long time girlfriend on Georgetown´s campus, congratulations and merry engagement from an admirer and well-wisher.